A: As part of quality lawn care, regular cutting with a mower should be observed and the grass should be cut to an even height. Cutting your lawn once per week should be sufficient.

A: Not everyone does this, but it is recommended that lawns be watered in order to avoid having the grass to dry up and turn brown. If this happens, you could be left with brown spots in your yard.

A: Dogs and lawn care are not the best matches, but they can work together. When you replant your lawn, consider using seeds that are specifically designed for high traffic areas. Other factors that may worsen the effect that your dog is having on the lawn may include a chain dragging the grass and exposing the dirt surface below or if your dog is prone to digging.

Typically Spring Cleanups start at the beginning of April, weather permitting. Mowing will start after in mid-April.

Typically, we stop mowing services the week before thanksgiving. As a rule of thumb, the first frost indicates about four weeks left of grass growth.

No, we find the best way to take care of our clients is with a minimum of one month of service.

We do not for residential homes; we’ve found maintaining the level of quality we expect is not possible. We do for some commercial or empty properties.

Simply call at least 24 hours in advance and we will take you off the schedule. We allow four calls in skips per season. If the crew comes out, they will do something, such as pull weeds, dial in the edging, etc. If you request the crew skip once at your home you will be charged full price, as most of our cost is sending the crew to your home.

• Application methods can vary depending on each lawn's needs and/or weather conditions
• Both granular and liquid fertilizer are effective
• Granular is absorbed slower and tends to promote root growth, while liquid is absorbed very quickly and tends to promote top growth
• During summer, granular fertilizer is used instead of liquid to protect against burning and feed roots (even during dormancy)

• Not all applications have pesticides, which are regarded as more dangerous than fertilizers.
• Granular applications fall to the soil and the lawn is safe to walk on shortly after application.
• Liquid applications only need to dry (time depends on weather, typically 1 hour) before its safe for traffic
• Once dry our products are safe for your pet too. Even if small amounts of fertilized grass are ingested symptoms are rare.

• We only recommend grub control when grubs are present and causing damage
• Some grub activity is normal if no damage is occurring, this is called the economic threshold Level (ETL)
• Treating pests below the ETL can cause resistance and other undesirable effects

Grub damage in the lawn can be noticeable and, in many cases, easy to identify. Here’s what to look for:

• Wilting and Brown Patches: Areas may wilt and brown, resembling drought damage.
• Loose Turf: Grass may pull up easily due to weakened roots from grub feeding.
• Increased Animal Activity: Birds, skunks, or raccoons digging in the lawn could indicate grubs.
• Exposed Soil: Severe damage may lead to exposed soil.

Grub damage is often easy to spot when widespread, and regular lawn monitoring can help address issues early.

Here’s a step-by-step guide to dealing with grubs in the lawn:

1. Identify the Type of Grub: Ensure grubs are the cause and determine the species.
2. Confirm Infestation: More than 10-12 grubs per square foot usually indicates a problem.
3. Choose the Right Treatment: Apply imidacloprid or chlorantraniliprole to the entire lawn in late summer or fall.
4. Improve Lawn Health: Fertilize, water, and mow properly to help the lawn recover.
5. Prevent Future Infestations: Apply preventive treatments in late spring or early summer.
6. Replace Damaged Grass: Reseed or lay new sod after treating grub issues.